What to Expect From This Mexican Tasting Menu Adventure
KOL has been on my foodie hit list for ages—and for good reason. This is London’s first Michelin-starred Mexican restaurant led by the brilliant Chef Santiago Lastra (the guy who helped set up NOMA’s pop-up in Mexico before opening KOL), and it proudly sits on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. So yes, expectations were sky-high.
The experience? Unique, theatrical, and unlike anywhere else in London. The flavors were bold, unexpected, sometimes genius… sometimes a little too clever. Plates? Tiny works of art (and I mean tiny). If you’re after authentic, hearty Mexican food, this isn’t it. But if you want to feel like you’ve been whisked into a Michelin-starred Mexican theatre production, KOL is absolutely the stage.
Atmosphere:
Imagine stepping into a chic hacienda dream: tropical plants, rustic wood, earthy textures, and a vibe that whispers “cool, but laid back.” KOL has Mexico in its soul and London in its bones, making it the perfect spot to dress up a little and settle in for a long, playful dinner.
Downstairs hides a secret bar—cosy, vibrant, and very on-theme with that stylish Mexican flair. It feels like the kind of place you’d want to linger after the meal, sipping mezcal and pretending you’ve been whisked away to Oaxaca.
Service:
The staff were absolute stars. Honestly, the service alone deserves a standing ovation. Every dish arrived with its own mini story—part food lesson, part theatre—and the enthusiasm was contagious. It felt like being whisked off on a mini Mexican adventure, guided by a team who genuinely love what they do.
Drinks:
Go for the pairings—you won’t regret it. Whether you choose wine or mezcal, they’ve curated something special that really works with the food. The wine list in particular is unexpected and brilliant, making even the trickiest flavor combinations shine.
Price: ££££
This is not the place to come if you’re starving and hoping to roll home full. The tasting menu is pricey, and the portions lean more “art gallery” than “Mexican Feast.” But you’re paying for the story, the drama, the whole experience. For a special occasion? Totally worth it. For a random night craving Mexican food? Definitely not.
What I ordered:
We dove into the tasting menu, and it was one surprise after another.
Starters
Warmed up the show:
Fig leaf, scotch bonnet, spruce shoots – Fresh, fiery, and green in all the right ways. Like some holy water to wake your palette up—an absolute banger of a start.
Mackerel, pickled rose, summer mole – Delicate, silky mackerel with a whisper of smoke, lifted by floral notes and that rich, earthy mole. Unexpected, balanced, and quietly elegant.
Strawberry, sea arrowgrass, pumpkin seed sikil pak – Sweet, bright, and nutty. Basically summer captured in a single bite.
*Girasol
This one stole the show for me. Think guacamole, but with a glam makeover. Silky-smooth, nutty, impossibly moreish—and then crowned with glossy caviar for that extra wow wow wow. A humble dip turned into pure luxury.
COCO
YES. This dish was a total surprise—silky cuttlefish tangled with that deep seaweed flavor, then rounded off with a sweet, creamy coco purée. Hands down, a genius combo of flavors and textures that just worked.
TACO
Smoky, juicy langoustine with a tangy kick and that punchy chilli heat—the crowd-pleaser of the night. Honestly, I wanted to pick it up, slurp every last drop of that gorgeous broth, and properly chew on the shell… but you know, KOL is a little too fancy for that.
Chilmole
Pineapple-tomato with blackcurrant and herbs—sweet, spicy, tangy, and chewy all at once. Interesting, yes… but honestly, it felt a bit like an overcomplicated fruit salad. So many personalities crammed into one dish, I wasn’t sure who to listen to.
*Estofado
Look at this scallop—huge! Easily one of the best I’ve ever had. Dreamy, melt-in-your-mouth sweetness paired with a silky, creamy sauce on top… oh my goodness. Pure luxury in a single bite.
Barbacoa
Deep, rich, and comforting—such a fitting way to wrap up the savory courses. But here’s the thing: I was craving something to really sink my teeth into. I could smell the lamb, taste the richness, but texture-wise it felt more like a taco brushed with lamb oil than the hearty bite I was hoping for.
Paleta
Jalapeño, yoghurt, raspberry ice cream and… wood ants. Yep, real ants. Crunchy, but honestly pretty mild in taste (more theatre than flavor). The jalapeño ice though? Super refreshing and such a clever way to end on a zingy note.
* Tamal
Birch, koji, apple, and buttermilk—all perfectly matched. Earthy, deep flavors from the sponge cake paired with a refreshingly tangy ice cream on top. A clever, memorable finale that definitely sticks in your foodie memory.
Small treats
They also gave us small treats 🙂
Coclusion:
KOL isn’t about authenticity—it’s about creativity. It’s Mexico filtered through fine dining, storytelling, and a touch of wild imagination. Some dishes made me grin, some made me scratch my head, but all of them made me feel something. And that’s the whole point.
Would I go back every month? No—my wallet (and my stomach) would protest. But for a special night where you want to be dazzled, surprised, and maybe even eat an ant or two? KOL is 100% worth it.
Tips:
- The menu at KOL changes with the seasons, so there’s always something new to discover. You can check their latest lunch and dinner tasting menus directly on their website before booking..
- Dress Code: Smart-casual works perfectly here. You don’t need to go over the top, but it’s worth putting a little thought into your outfit—especially if you’re dining with clients, friends, or a date.
- If you can’t get enough of Chef Santiago Lastra’s cooking, he opened Fonda in Mayfair—a more relaxed sister restaurant serving contemporary Mexican dishes.
