Fantastic Flavors, if you can handle the Service Chaos
Set in the heart of St. James’s, 45 Jermyn St. is the kind of spot that oozes old-school charm with a side of fancy-but-not-too-fancy vibe that makes you feel like you should be sipping something with a dash of gin and a slice of lemon while you peruse the menu.
The food? Pretty spectacular. The Beef Wellington, in particular, is worth writing home about—perfectly cooked, flaky pastry, and all the rich, beefy goodness you could want. You’ll want to make sure you give it a proper bit of attention because it’s that good.
The other dishes on the menu aren’t messing about either—whether it’s the white truffle delights, the starters, or the sides, you can tell they’ve made with top-notch ingredients and some serious attention to detail. Proper posh nosh made with proper posh ingredients and (love), that’s for sure.
Atmosphere:
The decor leans classic without feeling stuffy—vivid-coloured seating, warm lighting that makes you feel all cosy, and those super comfy sofa tables that practically beg you to sink into them and settle in for the long haul.
And can I just say—am I alone in this? I absolutely love a round table. There’s something magical about being able to see and chat with everyone at once. It’s like it has its own little festive vibe, isn’t it?
Service:
But let’s talk about the service, because that’s where things fell apart a bit. First off, when we asked if they could portion out a pasta dish for four people (because who wants to play musical chairs with spaghetti?), they just said no. Not “we’ll check,” not “we’ll see what we can do”—just a hard no and a “do it yourselves.” Charming.
Then came the juggling act. We made it clear we were sharing everything, but that didn’t stop them from bringing dishes out in random bursts. Main Fish and Beef Wellington arrived together, which sounds great in theory until you realize one of them’s going cold while you’re trying to enjoy the other.
The sides were another adventure—so hot they were basically lava rocks, which made passing them around the table a bit of a challenge. If you’re going to serve them that fiery, almost like you could have cooked an egg on them, fair enough, but instead, they made us risk third-degree burns.
Drinks:
They’ve got a serious wine collection, and if you’re a wine lover, choosing your drink might take longer than deciding on your food.
Price: £££
Considering they use premium ingredients like caviar, white truffle, and top-quality meats, the pricing feels justified. But at this level, you’d expect the service to match the quality of the food. Spoiler: it doesn’t. On the bright side, they didn’t tack on the usual Mayfair 15% service charge… small mercies?
What I Ordered:
*Raw Cornish Mackerel and Caviar Tacos
This dish reads like luxury meets creativity on paper, and it mostly deliverd. The raw Cornish mackerel was beautifully fresh, with a clean, briny flavor that paired effortlessly with the indulgent pops of saltiness from the caviar.
The crisp taco shells added just the right amount of texture, creating a bite that’s both delicate and satisfying.
Welsh Rarebit
This dish was pure comfort wrapped in sophistication. The rich, cheesy topping was perfectly gooey, with just the right amount of tang and a gentle kick of mustard to keep things interesting.
Spread over thick, golden slices of toasted bread, made me want to slow down and savor every bite.
*Tagliatelle and 24 Month Aged Parmesan
It was a simple, elegant plate that let top-quality ingredients do all the talking. The tagliatelle was cooked to a perfect al dente, with just enough bite to hold its own against the richness of the Parmesan sauce.
And then there’s the white truffle—a generous shaving that instantly elevated the dish with its earthy aroma and luxurious flavor. The truffle didn’t just complement the pasta; it transformed it into something special, a treat for both the palate and the senses.
Only if they’d brought this dish out after the other starters, I might have just melted into the pasta, right there at the table.
*Beef Wellington, Dauphinoise Potatoes, Green Beans and Peppercorn Sauce
This dish was nothing short of perfection—every element, from the main to the sides, was executed beautifully. The Beef Wellington was flawlessly cooked, with a golden, buttery pastry and tender, flavorful beef…
The Dauphinoise potatoes were creamy, rich, and perfectly crispy on the edges—comfort food at its very best. The green beans added a touch of freshness and balance, completing the plate with just the right amount of crunch and color.
But let’s talk about that peppercorn sauce. Watching it being prepared tableside, with brandy flambéed in front of me, was nothing short of a show. That super rich and creamy sauce gave me a serious heaven!
This is the kind of meal that stays with you—exceptional ingredients, perfect execution, and a bit of culinary theatre to top it off. It’s an experience that’s worth every bite and every moment. A must-try.
Monkfish with St Austell Bay Mussels and Champagne Butter Sauce
The monkfish was cooked to perfection—tender, meaty, and that crispy skin that made it such a standout fish. Although I did not find the role of the Austell Bay mussels on the plate, I quite like the Champagne butter sauce. Velvety and luxurious, it tied everything together with its creamy richness.
Honey and Thyme Heritage Carrots
Simple, elegant, and completely satisfying—this was comfort food with finesse. The carrots were roasted to perfection, their natural sweetness enhanced without being overpowering. The thyme added just the right amount of aromatic depth, making this an unforgettable twist on a classic side dish.
Peas and Leeks
This dish was the least adventurous nor complex offering. You wold not need to order this at the restaurant it was well coked but just nothing stood out good home meal level.
*Malt Ice Cream with Hoxton Honey
The shaved white truffle absolutely elevated the dish to a new level of sophistication, adding a delicate, unexpected twist that lingers beautifully on the palate.
This was the kind of dessert that takes risks and wins, proving that sometimes the best flavors come from mixing the unexpected. If you’re a fan of unique flavor pairings, this is a must-try.
Conclusion:
45 Jermyn St. absolutely nails the food and gets the atmosphere mostly right, but the service needs a serious upgrade.
If they can figure out how to match their hospitality to the quality of what’s on the plate, this place could be unstoppable. Until then, go for the food, brace yourself for a few service hiccups, and maybe work on your side-dish-handling skills beforehand.
*Menu available here: https://www.fortnumandmason.com/45-jermyn-st
*It’s actually part of the Fortnum & Mason group, which now makes total sense. Good food, but super luxury isn’t exactly on the table here.
* They’re open from morning till late—starting with coffee at 7am and till cocktail o’clock at midnight. A proper all-day vibe if you fancy a coffee or a cheeky Martini at different times of the day.
* Dress Code: They say smart casual, and I couldn’t agree more. Turn up in anything too relaxed (unless you’ve got the Loro Piana credentials,), and you’ll likely feel a bit out of place. Best to strike the balance between looking nice and not trying too hard.
